Best belay carabiner for climbing 3 days ago · You might think that all carabiners are the same, but a suitable belay carabiner can make all the difference when it comes to releasing slack, dropping safely, and avoiding tragedies. The rounded lip on Mar 29, 2013 · To clarify, cross-loading happens when a carabiner is stressed horizontally on its minor axis: On one side the rope stresses horizontally against the gate, nose, or locking sleeve and center of the spine. 3 days ago · We bought the nine best carabiners and tested them side by side on alpine peaks, sport crags, and stellar multi-pitch climbs. For those willing to trade routine for an ironclad belay connection, the GridLock is worth a look. However, if you want the versatility of belaying one or two followers, stick with a tube device with guide mode. Apr 28, 2025 · If you’re a newer climber, learning how to give a safe and proper toprope belay will also make you a much more desirable climbing partner. And you’ll be able to ignore some classic shapes until you delve into niche climbing styles like aid climbing (less than 1% of climbers). This orientation occurs when a carabiner becomes cross-loaded, which can happen easily with a belay carabiner. Petzl Attache. Petzl Attache: The Best Overall. A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. Remember to always check and double-check the carabiner and belay system before each climb. Jan 13, 2022 · You simply clip one carabiner to each bolt and girth-hitch a locking carabiner as the masterpoint. We recommend it as the Best Carabiner For Grigri use. Belaying with any style of belay device (indoors or out) Anchor carabiners for outdoor sport climbing or trad climbing; Ice / Alpine / Winter climbing – Screw gates tend to be the easiest locking style to finagle back into action if/when they freeze shut. 99 $ 24 . , the Petzl attaché has a pear shape -- which end should face my harness and why? 3 days ago · What Is A Carabiner? Top 13 Best Carabiners For Climbing. 5mm, pairs well with any HMS locking carabiner, and lowers smoothly and securely even when it’s the 20th lowering of the day. They have full section top bars for consistent rope control and reduced rope wear. Nov 9, 2023 · The Petzl Attache is the #1 most owned currently available carabiner. Apr 29, 2024 · Still, climbing hardware continues to evolve, from refinements on classic gear like belay devices, to more-ergonomic iterations of staples like quickdraws, to more compact and lighter designs. 7mm and 10. k. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. Short answer - DMM Ceros. D-Shaped: Strongest and most versatile, ideal for general climbing use. Read Time - 2 minutes. What we don’t: Heavy, expensive, and requires a bit of a learning curve; cannot be used for double-rope rappelling. These are very common and are suitable for any kind of climbing. May 20, 2020 · Best Carabiner For GriGri Plus / Best Carabiner For GriGri 2. The DMM Ceros Screwgate Carabiner is – quite possibly – the best belay carabiner ever created. If you are using the older GriGri with a fairly thin rope, we’d suggest the Petzl Freino to help add friction when lowering and rappelling. The best carabiner for belaying ultimately depends on personal preference and specific climbing needs. But in order to provide the assisted-braking feature that makes the ATC competitive with the GriGri, users must carry two carabiners. The Attache has been Petzl’s go-to belay locking carabiner for years. 4 days ago · The Best Belay Device. The device is compatible with ropes measuring 8. A belayer’s hand managing a rope through a brightly colored belay device, ensuring smooth and safe climbing. Sep 20, 2018 · So an “HMS” carabiner is, roughly, the “half clove hitch belay” carabiner, a large, locking pear-shaped carabiner, suitable for belaying with a Munter hitch. The Rhino carabiner makes an ideal belay carabiner with its incredible 6,069 pound load capacity and wide basket. In that case, you’ll want to prioritize lightweight carabiners over others. So, let's dive into the picks of the best carabiners you can get your hands on. 5-11 mm. In addition to the fully round stock carabiners, the CAMP Nimbus was added to the review by special request (shout out to Nick B!), and two non-round stock carabiners were added to the test for Large pear-shape locking carabiner: Sport-climbing quickdraws: Asymmetric D carabiners with straight gates, bent gates and/or wiregates: Trad-climbing quickdraws: Asymmetric D carabiners with wiregates: Racking trad gear: Asymmetric D, D or oval carabiners I have the petzl freino belaying carabiner. Sep 29, 2021 · Mammut’s Crag Wire Gate carabiner is both affordable and durable. Their wide baskets make for easy setup and smooth feeding, and the width is also necessary if you ever have to belay off a Munter hitch. Nov 8, 2024 · XINDA Screwgate Locking Carabiner Clip - Professional Rock Climbing Carabiner Screw Lock,Heavy Duty Carabiners for Climbing,Mountaineer,Hammock,Camping,Outdoor Equipment 4. (Photo: Derek DeBruin) Ice-Screw Belay: A very similar rigging works with ice screws as well, but uses a double-length (120 cm) runner instead. A slightly larger, modernized, auto lock version of our best-selling Element carabiner that features a smooth gate-to-body transition on the bottom of the carabiner eliminates the belay loop hangups common to other auto lock carabiners. Belay carabiners are great for dedicated sport and trad climbing use. This is my primary locking carabiner, which I use with belay devices, with munters (it is an HMS, designed to take munters readily, even on double ropes), and many other situations. Best for: Multipitch trad climbing, sport climbing, gym climbing. 0: Read Review: Y&Y Vertical Classic Aug 13, 2024 · The biggest divergence is although the side plates have a hole for a locking carabiner, the Edelrid Pinch can attach directly to the belay loop as long as it’s less than 3/4-inch wide. Sep 14, 2020 · Comes in three colors – orange, purple, and grey. Aug 20, 2021 · Larger carabiners are best for belaying and rappelling. Feb 2, 2015 · FresKaro UIAA Certified 25KN Auto Locking Climbing Carabiner Clips, Twist Lock, and Heavy Duty Carabiners for Rock Climbing, Rappelling, and Mountaineering, D Shaped 3. Dec 13, 2023 · The GriGri+ weighs 7 ounces (198g), while most ATC guides weigh about 2. You use it in conjunction with an assisted belay device. Our team of climbing experts leverages more than 40 years of combined climbing experience, styling alpine ascents and performing rescues with the Yosemite Search and Rescue. To attach your belay device to your harness, you need a locking carabiner, and some are better for the job of belaying than others. Carefully considering factors such as gate type, shape, strength, weight, and size will help you with making your decision. The advantage of a pear shaped biner is that is has a large area for holding ropes, which is useful if you need to tie a clove hitch to it, or use it for a double rope rappel. Sep 21, 2023 · Carabiners are not intended to be loaded along the minor axis (cross-loaded), but it’s possible for a carabiner to unintentionally rotate during use, particularly during belay. However, some are streets ahead of others, and some are just plain unfunctional. Editor’s Choice: Metolius Roll Up Stick Clip Kit ($225) Any climbing-rated carabiner is going to be durable for keys rattling on someone’s pants. On top are the HMS/pear style. Best Jul 7, 2021 · The goal of this review was to find the best fully round stock locking carabiner for rope bearing on a belay device in plaquette or "guide" mode. The girth-hitch masterpoint configuration at a standard two-bolt belay. It has a nifty “horn” along the back spine that helps prevent cross-loading and a generous gate opening that doesn’t create problems getting your rope in or out. Oct 1, 2020 · Belaying is a crucial skill in climbing, as your climbing partner is literally putting their life in your hands. There are certainly lighter carabiners out there—but they are typically much smaller and therefore a nightmare to handle when pumped or while wearing gloves. Long Answer… Brands have been churning out dedicated belay biners for years now. Top Select: Petzl Attache; Best Bang for your Buck-CAMP USA Photon Lock; Black Diamond Magnetron (greatest auto-locking) Black Diamond Neutrino (greatest non-locking) Best Asymmetric D: DMM Phantom Screw-Gate Carabiner; Best Auto-Locking: Edelrid HMS Strike Slider May 9, 2024 · It's not just a fancy clip, it's an important piece of gear as crucial to your safety as your climbing harness, belay device or helmet. It’s tricky to lower smoothly, especially without belay gloves. Nov 15, 2024 · Best Gifts Under $75 Camp Nano 22 Rack Pack ($40) (Photo: Brad Kaminski) The Nano 22 is billed as the lightest “fully functional” carabiner in the world, and we wholeheartedly agree. Of all accidental misuses of a carabiner, cross-loading is the most frequent suspect, which is why there is a rating for it. Carabiners are strongest when stressed on their major axises meaning directly in line, vertically, along the spine. The belay keeper is a feature that most yells out “Belay with me, I’m a belay carabiner!” Sep 21, 2023 · In 2019, Petzl released the newest version, and we think it’s the best overall belay device available in 2024. Dec 4, 2020 · Shape matters most when considering carabiners for particular things, like for belay systems and aid climbing gear. Most are rated to 26 kN which is ~5800 of force lol Reply reply Jan 7, 2019 · YXGOOD 50KN Rescue Figure, 8 Descender Large Bent-Ear Belaying and Rappelling Gear Belay Device Climbing for Rock Climbing Peak Rescue Aluminum Magnesium Alloy (Black) 4. DMM Ceros Screwgate Carabiner. The GriGri+ also comes with an anti-panic feature to support new belayers that have a tendency to open the handle all of the way, leading to an uncontrolled descent, leaving you looking like a rookie on the wall. This graph shows each carabiner shape in terms of their share of the market (2023). It allows the device to take some of the weight off of you when lowering a partner heavier than you. Their shape resists flipping into sub-optimal orientations when belaying, acting to ensure the carabiner loads along its strongest axis. The DMM Sentinel is designed to be used with the DMM Bugette belay device, so it's perfectly able as a belay carabiner. Mar 12, 2025 · Check out GearJunkie’s guide to the Best Climbing Harnesses to use with a Petzl NEOX. 0 Belay Device’s assisted braking will give you a hand. 67 kn High: 14 kn. com : Black Diamond Rocklock Screwgate Locking Carabiner for Rock Climbing, Mountaineering, Rappelling, Work, Black : Sports & Outdoors Nov 11, 2019 · Amazon. A locked biner prevents accidental gate openings so you can climb more safely, and every belay device should be attached to one. Apr 27, 2021 · The Mega Jul is a little finicky — it behaves best with certain carabiners (beefy HMS belay ‘biners work best), and it takes some getting used to. I’m only 100 lbs, and it really helps me give a good belay and a comfortable controlled lower. The result is a compre Jan 22, 2025 · No need to carry a belay locker in your pack; Orientation is “built in”—device stays reliably upright on your belay loop; Belay action is close to the body and ergonomic, with no locking carabiner in the way; Feeds silky-smooth with skinnier (~9. Below, you’ll find the best climbing hardware available in 2024. The GridLock Magnetron is the most expensive carabiner we tested. a. It’s a compact, pear-shaped design and wide rope-bearing surface for smooth belays and reduced wear. Tubular Belay Devices. Mar 13, 2024 · Amazon. Petzl (along with Black Diamond) is one of the most readily available carabiner brands. Important Specs; 2. Same story on rappels Jul 11, 2024 · Best Overall Belay Device Petzl Grigri ($110) Style: Assisted-braking What we like: Assisted braking allows for a more secure belay. Dec 16, 2022 · The best belay device for multi-pitch climbing is an auto-blocking belay device when the device is set up in guide mode, such as the Black Diamond ATC Guide or the Petzl Grigri. May 28, 2024 · Like its predecessor, the GriGri+ prevents rope slippage, allows you to haul, and belay with an assist without batting an eye. This carabiner is specifically designed for use with a Grigri and has a couple of cool features that make belaying safer and easier. Here are some tips and the best method for giving a good toprope belay, whether you’re using a tube device like an ATC or a brake-assisted belay device like the grigri. There have been four GriGri designs on the market: – This carabiner, the Petzl William Ball-lock is the metal sleeve successor to the plastic-sleeved ball-lock. Petzl NEOX Check Price At REI (Photo/Petzl) as is the belay carabiner clipping point. Thankfully, the Mammut Smart 2. ” Jun 21, 2023 · Our Selection of the 9 Best Climbing Carabiners of 2025. com : Black Diamond Rocklock Screwgate Locking Carabiner for Rock Climbing, Mountaineering, Rappelling, Work, Black : Sports & Outdoors The Best Belay Carabiner. 93 Inch, Large Size, Black $24. 8 out of 5 stars 4,548 1 offer from $3699 $ 36 99 GridLock design keeps the carabiner properly oriented on your belay loop to avoid cross loading; I-beam spine transitions into a rounded rope-bearing surface for smooth belaying and rappelling I like the Ocun Condor HMS, and other carabiners like this like the DMM Ceros and Metolius Gatekeeper. Oct 31, 2018 · I personally don’t like having to modify my belay routine based on carabiner or climbing venue, so I’ll stick to a traditional HMS. If you’re trad climbing, particularly on multi-pitch, weight can make a difference because you’ll have a lot of carabiners on your rack. Take a look at the top 10 picks for the best belay and rappelling carabiners for your partner so you can have the best rappelling and belaying experience possible. It takes the grunt of the weight, handles wear and tear, and keeps you secure - quite literally at the end of the line. To achieve this, DMM has attached a removable plastic gate that swings shut and both locks the screwgate closed and Apr 3, 2019 · The last item on our best carabiner list is another entry from DMM. com : PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device with Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner - Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking for Sport, Trad, & Top-Rope Climbing - Blue : Sports & Outdoors Aug 15, 2019 · While this carabiner is effective for the purpose it is designed for, we found it to be laborious to use, and honestly felt a bit exasperated having to open and close the gate so many times to fiddle the locker onto our belay loop, or to add the belay device, especially during long sport climbing sessions or at the gym. The GriGri is especially Jan 23, 2024 · Locking carabiners are essential to climbing, whether you're a seasoned pro or just starting out. 7 out of 5 stars 235 1 offer from $1699 $ 16 99 Carabiner Shapes. The thumb loop is an intuitive way to unlock the device, but it requires a new technique for feeding slack. Pair with the Gridlock Magnetron carabiner for the perfect belay pair. With its revolutionary, patent-pending design made possible by our in-house hot forge, the Black Diamond GridLock Screwgate eliminates the dangers of cross loading. Minor axis Low: 7 kn Avg: 8. This is actually where the acronym “HMS” comes from — the German word for a Munter is (with typical German bombast): “Halbmastwurfsicherung. The rope is folded and pushed through the device and clipped with a locking carabiner to the belayer or directly to the anchor. The extra length is needed to It's not a critical decision, both types of carabiners will function perfectly with a Gri-Gri. 99 Long days at the crag can mean belaying fatigue. As if for some reason you forget to put your belay loop behind the anti-cross loading mechanism, it will just harmlessly be pulled down into the bottom of the carabiner via the spring loaded gate that opens downward and then locks moving upward. I love it soooo much. (Side note - belaying the second with a Munter hitch directly off the anchor might seem a little old-school, but it’s a very useful technique that every climber should know. April 2020. Value. 5 ounces (71g). HMS) Pear-shaped carabiners have a small runner’s end, a large gate-opening, and a very wide, gently rounded rope basket best suited for accommodating multiple items or bulkier gear. HMS (Pear-Shaped): Perfect for belaying and setting up munter hitches. Pear (a. Designed specifically for belaying, the intuitive, easy-to-use GridLock isolates the belay loop behind its uniquely shaped gate, thereby keeping the carabi Jan 8, 2019 · Enter the belay specific locking carabiner design. The disadvantage is that because the load is shared more evenly between the spine side and the gate side (wh Oct 1, 2018 · As a belay 'biner, it's not as chunky as I'm used to – but, that's a personal preference. Let me clarify: Can a locking carabiner, properly closed, anchored via the belay loop of your harness, be broken in real world conditions? You’d need to tie off your anchor through the belay loop, cross-load the gate, and produce a factor 2 fall to approach it, but I’m not sure if it’s even been done - and then maybe only with a steel 6 days ago · Name Frame Material Accessories Price Rating Review; Metolius Upshot: Plastic: Hard Case w/ Carabiner, Lanyard, Lens Cloth $$ 5. Espresso Note. It's built for ropes between 8. Universal Belay Advice: Pay Attention. Aug 15, 2019 · All of the lockers tested for our Best Locking Carabiner Review, with a Petzl Gri-Gri two for size reference. Dec 15, 2021 · An indirect belay can be performed with any guide mode belay device, or even with a simple locking carabiner and a munter hitch. One could argue that they’d be carrying the carabiners anyways, in which case the ATC would be quite a bit lighter. Belay carabiners give smooth and confident belaying with tube and assisted breaking belay devices. The indirect belay method should only be used when even the best anchor available is not reliable enough to trust the climbers’ lives to it. The #1 most owned carabiner ever is the now retired Black Diamond Positron (screwgate). All of these carabiners will work with all of the different versions of the device. 2mm on down) ropes I like to belay top rope with a GriGri - what is the best carabiner design for this setup? Is a Petzl Attaché screw-lock ok? I also have a Camp Orbit 2 auto lock. Aug 31, 2021 · HMS ‘biners tend to make the best belay carabiners. Sep 15, 2020 · First off here is what we think you should look for in the best belay carabiner: – HMS or Pear Shape – Best shape for a belay carabiner; Rounded top edge for smoother belaying and lowering; Has to lock – The locking mechanism is a personal choice; Doesn’t cross load – Important for safety; Versatility is a bonus; Don’t Need A Full Feb 29, 2024 · In this post we’ll cover what makes some locking carabiners better than others for belaying – so you’ll be able to find the best belay carabiner for your climbing styles and preferences. By This carabiner, the Petzl William Ball-lock is the metal sleeve successor to the plastic-sleeved ball-lock. Dec 5, 2024 · The latter can be broken down further into active ABDs and passive ABDs. The middle row are the light/compact style, and the bottom row are the belay specific lockers. Nov 11, 2019 · Amazon. At a Glance. Inspect and clean your carabiners often to prevent sticky gates. Shop belay devices. Comparison Table; 1. A lot of wire gate carabiners don’t offer much in the way of weight savings but the Crag weighs just 43 grams making it one of Feb 22, 2024 · Common Uses. All of these are designed to be used clipped directly to the belay loop of a harness with a locking carabiner when belaying the lead climber, or when belaying a top-roping climber. Oval: Balanced shape, good for racking gear and belay devices. E. Petzl Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner: The Best for Belaying with a Grigri Oct 12, 2023 · You’ll soon be able to tell the best shape for each area of climbing from belay to quickdraws to anchors. While nearly every climbing manufacturer makes one; the Belay Master 2 by DMM is among the most popular of these designs intended to eliminate cross loading while belaying. Mar 11, 2017 · Notice the huge reduction in strength. Also how does the shape of the carabiner affect things and which orientation should it have? I. pdwvl qeymr pqhmjz mxa bdhfhggu gvbd guxhoh uvyku pcyb rei znyrawwz jyz xizuzc kwgjp tomd