Belay climbing One of the first skills you need to master once you start climbing is how to belay. Weighing less than 10oz and holding up to 4KN (4000 kg), the Epic Peak Rescue Figure 8 Descender is your one stop shop multi-functional descender. These are all carried out with both you and your partner on the ground once you decide which route you will jump on. Top-rope belaying: In top-rope climbing, a rope runs up and down a rock wall and is threaded through an anchor on the summit. But selecting one of the modern tubular or assisted style belay devices is a great place to start. The device enables a climber to ascend indoor routes on a top rope but without the need for a human belaying partner. I’ll explain some of the key things to consider when choosing a belay device. Lightweight, rugged and auto locking, this thing is build to for anything. Overview of Top Rope Belaying. Jan 9, 2024 · Belaying is the most important climbing skill because it guarantees that the climber won’t hit the ground if they fall. The Fashionable Climber Belaggles Belay Goggles are for climbers looking for that extra bit Located in Garland, just outside Dallas, HAPIK fun climbing gym offers over 6,000 square feet of pure fun, with 2 ropes courses and more than 100 routes across 40 themed climbing walls equipped with auto belay devices. Each has its own benefits for different climbers. Catch simulated falls and demonstrate the proper lowering technique. Dec 5, 2024 · The Best Belay Device. Jan 20, 2014 · When Tommy Caldwell or Mayan Smith-Gobat work a free climb high on El Capitan, the crux may be finding a belayer willing to put in days of duty in an isolated and exposed location. ” Most climbing gyms provide the belaying equipment or offer rental for them. I’ll talk about top rope and lead belaying. Sep 19, 2024 · Benefits of a Proper Belay Enhanced Climbing Safety. It’s a rectangle of nylon that goes under your rear, with webbing loops on either side. This lead belayer feeds the rope to a climber who clips the rope to anchors along the rock face. The second then gives three affirmative tugs back before unplugging the belay and climbing. Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. Top Rope Belaying. If you’re climbing a lot or belaying someone on their project, your neck will definitely start to feel it. A belay device is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying. If there’s any potential for rock- or icefall, position the belay in a protected spot—off to the side or with a natural protective feature. They eliminate the need for a climbing partner who belays the climber, belaying is manually controlling the rope to hold the climber and ensure that they do not Jan 4, 2024 · Most climbers own 1-3 belay devices, and use different devices depending on the type of climbing, rope thickness, and location of the climb. This technique is the cornerstone of secure climbing, whether indoors on a climbing wall or outdoors on a natural rock face. Mar 9, 2025 · Keeping your eyes on your climber is of utmost importance, but it can quickly get uncomfortable as a belayer. If you do not have any, confirm that you can rent them from the gym. In its simplest form, a belay consists of a rope that runs from a climber to another person (the belayer) who can stop the climber's fall. Parthian's Southampton Climbing Wall is a modern, welcoming facility for climbers of all abilities. Velocity offers a collection of exhilarating climbing options designed to inspire and empower climbers of all backgrounds, from absolute beginner to seasoned enthusiasts. Jan 22, 2025 · Per Edelrid, the Pinch, for multipitch climbing, also allows “Attachment to the belay station in four different directions in 90° increments,” giving you guide-mode options when belaying from above. It’s used by 70-80% of new climbers. Feb 10, 2022 · The Alpha Parka is a one-stop-shop for those needing a high-end belay jacket to match a variety of winter conditions: It’s lofty and warm for cold belays and bivies; it’s thoughtfully insulated with both down and synthetic materials to keep your coat from collapsing into a soggy mess on warmer, snowy days; if the wind and snow blow sideways, the Gore-Tex Infinium layer keeps out the Mar 24, 2016 · Belay Seat. To keep the forces in-line with gravity all three should be in-line to prevent either the belay, belayer or the climber being pulled sideways across the cliff. There are very few circumstances where this technique is applicable. Here’s a list of the equipment you may need: Climbing rope: provided by climbing gym; Belay device: check if provided by Feb 8, 2024 · If you've been climbing for awhile, you might remember around 2001 when the Petzl Reverso belay device was introduced. Climbing wall staff will administer the test and ensure that all certified individuals are safe, confident belayers. As with any outdoor sport that entails Lead Belaying vs. Jul 26, 2023 · Safe belaying requires forethought, so your belayer can focus. For now, though, let’s start by looking at the general steps you should follow to get ready for belaying. For those looking for belay glasses to reduce neck strain on a budget, these are definitely the best bet. Belaying is a critical part of climbing safety. Patrons who want to learn to belay, who are unsure of any of the above requirements, or who want a refresher should register for our Top-Rope Belay Clinic. 2. Best for: Sport climbing, gym climbing, multipitch trad climbing. With the right belay device, a small, weak climber can easily arrest the fall of a much heavier partner. Think of it like having a seatbelt on while driving – it’s not the most exciting thing in the world, but it’s essential for your well-being. At 3:02 we review how to tie a Figure 8 and then the Figure 8 follow Through. For the most part, to use these devices, one must first fold and push the rope through one of the ‘tubes’ in the device and then clip the rope with a locking carabiner. These are the most common belays in the climbing world today. Know the climbing commands used at the ARC, and when to use them. Climber: On Belay? Belayer: Belay On! Climber: Climbing! Belayer: Climb On! Getting in the Proper Belay Stance. Belaying is the most important climbing skill because it guarantees that the climber won’t hit the ground if they fall. ” The belayer then tugs back three times to show understanding and also shouts “off belay. ) and, said Bollini, “tested according to the canonical regulations for climbing (UIAA) by a specialized certification body (dolomiticert). Often, the solution is to go alone, rehearsing the key pitches by solo toproping. He should also wear a helmet. Anticipating the climber’s movements is crucial to prevent too much or too little slack. Climbing Style. Competition belayers must provide a consistent and professional experience, allowing competitors to achieve success based on their abilities and preparation while never compromising the safety of our athletes and support personnel. Indoor Climbing & Auto Belaying. Belaying in Rock Climbing Basic Climbing Knots Video. Feb 12, 2024 · In terms of the best belay device, the Petzl Grigri 2 is a no brainer. Oct 15, 2021 · Lead belaying: In the lead belay technique, most of the rope is pooled on the ground at the feet of the belayer. Put the rope “on belay” using an approved belay device. It’s a dance of trust, coordination, and communication between climbers and belayers. Correct belaying methods allow a belayer to hold the entire weight of the climber with relatively little force and easily arrest falls. Belay Communication. Feb 22, 2020 · These belay devices are great for all kinds of climbing. Mar 16, 2022 · Learn how to belay a lead climber safely and effectively with this comprehensive guide. Jan 20, 2023 · Modern climbing technology has nearly eliminated the redirect belay from use. It is possible to out-climb a TRUBLUE auto belay due to the lag caused by the magnets trying to recoil the slack, but they are one of the most popular auto belay systems on the market today. This article will cover top rope belaying. Jun 1, 2021 · 2. Jun 19, 2023 · Whether climbing single-pitch routes or belaying the leader on a multi-pitch climb, these are the most commonly used belay techniques. Many big wallers have a homemade bosun’s chair, but a smaller and lighter option for free climbing is a premade nylon belay seat like the Yates Gear Belay Seat ($26, yatesgear. Paying attention to how your partner is getting on, keeping things relatively tight, maintaining friction on the rope and ensuring you – as the Feb 22, 2020 · The TRUBLUE auto belay system uses magnetic braking and has a minimum/maximum weight of 22 and 330 lbs respectively. Like most belay glasses they come with a carrying case, neck lanyard, and microfiber cloth. All lead testing is done with a top-rope back up and for your lead belay test you will need someone either testing with you or someone who is already lead certified at Sportrock. You’ll be happy to know that ProGrade is CE certified (required for products sold in the E. The term is also used when rappelling--the sport of using ropes to descend down a steep cliff face in a series of hops or jumps. The Official Auto Belay of IFSC World Cup Climbing and featuring our exclusive Duplex Spring Design™. Top rope belaying is perfect for beginners. Assisted-braking belay devices (also sometimes called self-braking, self-locking, auto-blocking or auto-locking devices) are designed to lock down on the rope when a sudden force is applied to it to help the belayer catch and hold a fall. Nov 30, 2021 · The locking system is mechanical, similar to most assisted-braking belay devices, reliant on friction. Find out how to set up, manage and lower the rope, and what commands to use with your climbing partner. However, remarked Anthony, this claim only holds up if you have a soft master point, like a sling tied with an overhand on a bight. There are key differences between lead belaying and top rope belaying that belayers should be aware of: Lead Belaying: Requires providing slack as the climber ascends and clips into protection points. The lead climber is attached to the rope, which passes through an anchor at the top of the climb. It covers the history, styles, techniques, devices, and tips of belaying, as well as the standard commands and checks for climbing partners. Dec 28, 2022 · One common system is to have the leader tug sharply on the rope three times to signal “off belay. It’s the safety net that catches you when you’re not paying attention, or when the unexpected happens. You must first be Belay Certified to top-rope at Sportrock, with the style of device you wish to use. And falling. Editor’s Note: Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity. Choose a gym that offers “auto belaying” since it’s a popular and safer type of indoor solo climbing. The most important thing to think about when picking a belay device is what type of climbing you plan to be doing. Direct Belay The direct belay is a belay directly off the anchor. This seems simple, but it is not difficult to lock off a carabiner attached only to the belay device. Dec 15, 2020 · There exists various types and techniques for belaying, depending on the style of climbing, belay device and setting. Universal Belay Advice: Pay Attention Jan 31, 2021 · All climbers should strive to refine their belaying practices throughout their climbing career, which means learning and practicing the subtleties that make a truly great belayer. Fully sealed for indoor and outdoor use. The GriGri+ also comes with an anti-panic feature to support new belayers that have a tendency to open the handle all of the way, leading to an uncontrolled descent, leaving you looking like a rookie on the wall. Whether you’re an active first ascensionist or just want to do some laps after work without a partner, solo toproping is a handy 6 days ago · If you’re a newer climber, learning how to give a safe and proper toprope belay will also make you a much more desirable climbing partner. In this REI Expert Advice video, we show you how to prepare to belay, per Jun 28, 2018 · While there are several techniques that “belaying” refers to, in general, belaying is the act of exerting tension on a climbing rope to counterbalance the climber when they fall. Belay glasses can save your neck, but how do you know which pair to choose? Here at The Adventure Junkies, we’ll help you find the best belay glasses for you and those long Feb 3, 2022 · So, let me explain how lead climbing a pitch and simultaneously belaying yourself works. There’s belaying, and then there’s catching falls. Nov 6, 2022 · Since then, times have changed. Apr 25, 2023 · The BG Climbing belay glasses are the cheapest belay glasses in our review. In top rope belaying, the climbing rope runs from the belayer’s belay device to the anchor point at the top of the climb and back down to the climber’s harness. USA Climbing competition belaying requires qualities above and beyond excellent belay skills. Many trad climbing areas are established with a leave-no-trace ethic, meaning no pre-installed anchor points at the top of climbs. 6m) per second, Speed Drive™ is ideal for speed climbing and competition, dynamic routes, interval training, and fitness routes and circuits. Over 25 Auto Belay routes catering for all abilities Feb 22, 2020 · Knowing which belay device to use for every occasion and how to operate the device properly is key for safety and success when it comes to climbing ropes. Demonstrate pre-climbing checks including harness and knot checks and commands. Many climbing gyms now require that all belayers use an assisted-braking device Mar 27, 2023 · As Andrew Bisharat puts it in his book, Sport Climbing, From Toprope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success, “Aside from knowing how to safely operate the belay devices, giving a soft catch is the most important, and least understood, aspect of great belaying. Feb 6, 2019 · In the sport of rock climbing, “on belay” is the first climbing command used by a rope climbing team at the base of a route, as well as at both the beginning and end of a pitch higher up the cliff. ” When the leader is ready to belay, he gives three tugs. Belaying, in essence, is a sophisticated method of controlling a rope to ensure a climber's safety. Here are some tips and the best method for giving a good toprope belay, whether you’re using a tube device like an ATC or a brake-assisted belay device like the grigri. This is the setup you will see in indoor climbing gyms. Jun 26, 2023 · Understanding Belaying. In a fall, the rope will pop out of the device like a champagne cork, burn your belayer's hands and you will deck out. Lead tests require at least 3 people. Elevate Your Climb At Velocity Climbing Where Passion Meets Peaks Begin your ascent and step into a realm of adventure that goes beyond the ordinary. Learn the essential skills of top-rope belaying, from gearing up to communication, with this article from REI. Rock climbing is not just a physical endeavor. Check with the gym what equipment you need to bring for the certification. Proper belaying is the unsung hero of . Belaying is key in rock climbing. Lead climbing and belaying effectively involve many nuances. The climbing rope is redirected through a top anchor or a leader’s top piece of protection, and the belayer provides a counterweight, coupled with effective belay technique and tools, to hold or lower the Jul 28, 2024 · Belaying Techniques for Rock Climbing. Climb to dizzying heights with 26 feet to scale! Challenge yourself and compete with your friends to find out who's the best What is Belaying in Mountain Climbing? Belaying is a technique used in rock climbing, whereby one person (the belayer) takes in the slack rope through a device attached to their harness, while the other climber (the lead climber) climbs. ”. A top Nov 9, 2021 · It is possible to self-belay if you are climbing alone, however this is an advanced technique reserved for experienced climbers (Image credit: Neil Gresham) It is possible to self-belay if you don't have a climbing partner, essentially by starting at the top and setting up a series of anchors on the descent, then reclimbing, however this is an Learn the essential techniques and steps for belaying in rock climbing. This comprehensive guide provides a step-by-step process to ensure safe and effective rope management, allowing climbers to support their partners while minimizing risks. The belayer’s strand of rope is threaded through the belay device according to the manufacturer’s specifications and attached to the belayer’s belay loop on their harness using a locked carabiner. Looking to take your climbing to the next level? We offer a variety of climbing instruction clinics to get started climbing, learn how to belay, climbing movement, lead climbing, and more! Aug 2, 2023 · End goal? Far from it. How to Belay; Climbing Techniques and Moves; Climbing Knots, Hitches and Bends; Climbing Holds: How to Use Them; How to Rappel Sep 21, 2023 · However, the climbing world is slowly phasing out this style of belay device, much like figure-8 belay devices. The tube-style device, assisted braking devices, and other belay devices have changed the face of what it means to belay. Mar 10, 2025 · Belaying is a technique of managing slack in a climbing system to safeguard a climber and prevent the climber from taking a dangerous fall. Dec 26, 2021 · Well, belaying is the process of managing the rope while your partner is climbing so that if they were to take a fall, you’d be able to prevent them from tumbling too far and injuring themselves. Most importantly, decide on a system with your climbing partner before you leave the ground! Learn more about Essential Rock Climbing Techniques. For most climbers, it’s most innovative, and to some controversial feature, was the ability to belay your second directly off the anchor and have the device autolock. The person holding the belay rope, or the belayer, pulls the rope through a belay device as the climber goes up. We’ve talked to guides, longtime climbers, and even a physicist about how to give the best catch possible in a variety of situations, and we’ve compiled all that Assisted-Braking Belay Devices. Setting up the Belay Device. The rst step when rigging top ropes is your ABC; Anchors, Belay and Climber. However, if you want the versatility of belaying one or two followers, stick with a tube device with guide mode. Indoor climbing follows the same principle as indoor solo bouldering – you climb at your gym with a large well-cushioned landing zone below to reduce the risk of injuries. The belayer’s skill at handling the rope determines the safety of rock climbing. Climbing Instruction. U. Belay gloves guard against rope burns and make it less likely that the belayer will accidentally let go of Dec 16, 2022 · Which device is best for multi-pitch climbing? The best belay device for multi-pitch climbing is an auto-blocking belay device when the device is set up in guide mode, such as the Black Diamond ATC Guide or the Petzl Grigri. Sport Routes 50 + Climbing Surface 2 […] An auto belay (or autobelay) is a mechanical device for belaying in indoor climbing walls, in both training and competition climbing formats. Belay, or manage the rope, such that a brake hand is maintained on the rope at all times. Yet passing a belay check should be the first of many steps in gaining experience and honing your safety skills. Once the first bolt is clipped, quickly get ready to belay in earnest. Choosing the right belay device can be tricky, especially if you’re new to climbing and not sure what you need. Climbing and belaying have become much safer, mostly thanks to modern belay devices. Knowing the different techniques makes climbing safer and better. com). Apr 8, 2020 · But if you’re looking for a cheap pair of belay glasses, BG Climbing also offers $20 pairs on Amazon. Preparing to Belay May 28, 2024 · Like its predecessor, the GriGri+ prevents rope slippage, allows you to haul, and belay with an assist without batting an eye. The rope should pass through the belay device and the carabiner attached to the belayer at their secure belay loop. For example, one device might be used for indoor gym climbing and outdoor sport cragging. At the core of this partnership lies belay communication – a system of belay commands and responses that ensure the safety and success of every ascent. Retracting at a lightning fast 15ft (4. In a standard top rope setting, the belayer stands below the climber as they ascend, controlling Dec 15, 2021 · Belaying from above is also common when trad climbing on routes with natural anchors, even on single-pitch climbs. [1] It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. Keep reading to learn about the most iconic belay device– the Black Diamond ATC. Apr 24, 2023 · An auto belay is a mechanical device that is used in rock climbing to provide an effective and efficient way of lowering a climber to the ground after they have completed their climb. Every climber will start off with learning top rope belaying. Every climbing facility has its baseline requirements to lead climb and belay. You assume the standard belay stance, with your non-dominant foot forward, your knees bent and your whole body relaxed yet ready. kagvmibgyvlafkrqtggtaqnacmyprbryssolgnvzgpbsnmipperxvphfzzvfckzeuimckjd