Mussy hooks for climbing. Beware however cast versions of these - The climber and climber’s rope should always remain positioned directly below the hook. If the horns are at equal elevation, I consider it nowhere near as risky as climbing above mussy hooks, but there is still some chance of one of them unlooping if the Upon reaching the anchors, after cleaning other party members' quickdraws on her way up, Zhang prepared to clean a lone locking carabiner that her group had placed on the 80 likes, 6 comments - blueridgemountainguides on November 5, 2024: "Some tips for top roping around mussy hooks. In most cases this is fine. If you fall above them, the line can cross the ga Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Build your own anchor. Sport A few days ago a young climber tragically died in Alabama due to misuse of mussy hook anchors. Mussy hooks are becoming more popular in the USA thanks to the American Safe Climbing Association's Lower-Off Initiative where they are equipping crags with lower-off hardware that BOLO for stolen Mussy Hooks. TR, lead moderate sport and trad. a. How it does it? - Its hooked steel tip catches Beware the Mussy Hook - page 2 - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Mussy hooks are becoming more popular in the USA thanks to the American Safe Climbing Association's Lower-Off Initiative where they are equipping crags with lower-off hardware that Mussy Hook Quick Facts: Who it's for? - Climbers What it does? - Provides a quick, lightweight clip-in point when no traditional protection fits. - Extend your Mindful top-roping🙏 . (List of Bolting for the Future, find all the best rock climbing bolting equipment at Sport Bolting LLC. Some climbers scoff at the Delap and others online noted that the inclusion of a locking carabiner into the system—while helpful to reduce wear in instances where Mussy Hooks - page 3 - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. One Mussy Hook. In keeping with climbing ethics, only the Well, kinda yes kinda no. Mussy hooks are meant for convenience in lowering, not for top-roping. This happened at my local crag. Following the lead of virtually all major North American An 18-year-old climber has died after an accident took place while climbing at Cherokee Rock Village in Alabama. Is it possible that the rope was threaded through the locker/anchor and then she cleaned it before threading the mussy hooks? Was the top rope running through the mussies How much abrasion can different gear handle before it wears through? What do you want to see tested? Mussy hooks? Rappel rings? Ultralight rings? Bulletproof Edelrid Jason our Senior Climbing Instructor shares a few tips on proper clipping of the Mussy Hooks found at the top of many of our climbing routes. No complaint here, no controversy. mussy hooks) or fixed carabiners at the anchors. The rope runs through one side of the fixed hardware, Mussy hooks have non-locking gates and, for various reasons, are usually installed so the gates face the same direction. Following the lead of virtually all major North American The transition from climbing to lowering can be the most dangerous part of sport climbing. Lowering or top-roping from your own equipment Mussy hooks became a very popular anchor option in the twenty-teens. Wondering if anyone has a recommendation on This video walks through how to safely transition from at the top of a climb when facing two mussy hooks, both when cleaning an anchor or when lowering directly. Thoughts go out to the friends and family. However. The “sacrificial carabiner” takes all the wear and prevents the Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. k. Rap rings in sport climbing crags are honestly just cheap. 9+ on Picnic Lunch Wall is in need of replacing. The problem with them is that if you get above them and fall, the rope can cross the gate on the h In other words, if you clip more than 2 Mussy hooks (2 at one anchor, then 1 or 2 at the other anchor), the backside of the gates of the inner Mussy hooks can damage the rope Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. I manage a lot of the fixed gear replacement for 2000+ sport routes in one of the sandiest climbing areas in the US. Mussy hooks – Mussies look like metal lobster claws. Be aware of potential risks if your local crag has mussy hooks for lowering (especially if you’re asking new climbers to clean anchors after TR session) I’ll link to Mussy hooks are essentially large non-locking carabiners that are left permanently affixed to the top anchor of a sport climb. I've spent three years bolting a limestone crag with friends and we shell out the extra $6 per A bunch of mussy hooks went in at Rutherford today, provided by MICA! Keep in mind these hooks are strictly for lowering, and are not to be used for a top rope anchor. Examples include carabiners, mussy hooks and Hey fellow climbers! My climbing partner and I are planning to head into the eastern Sierra (CA) next week to camp out and do some climbing. The file below may be easier to read on a desktop than on a mobile device. Put those “Can You Trust That Bolt?” PSA: Mussy Hooks and Lower Offs Anchor Maintenance News Supported by Our Sponsors & especially the following . Then, call for tension and I was climbing at Smith Rock today and my buddy noticed that one of the mussy hooks on Honey Pot 5. Learn safety tips to avoid hazards when using this More recently, many routes are being equipped with climbing rated "Mussy Hooks" which can be easily clipped and lowered off of, however A lot of AZ, USA climbing was just 2 hangers at the top until maybe 10 years ago the community got serious about replacement initiatives and the more popular Nottingham pointed out that, per American Safe Climbing Association recommendations, mussy hooks are only used in situations where there’s no access from the top. I also remember reading an accident, I forget the details, but something like where a climber was top roping and trying to clean, and was too high on an anchor with long chains and mussy With a pre-clean, the redirect carabiner needs to be higher than the fixed hardware. Deputy coroner Blake Madaris identified Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. This type of anchor point not only makes it With a pre-clean, the redirect carabiner needs to be higher than the fixed hardware. Even with many crags sporting mussy hooks or fixed carabiners, it’s prudent to become well versed in cleaning routes. 285 Likes, TikTok video from American Alpine Institute (@alpine_institute): “Discover the importance of mushy hooks in climbing. Accidents in North American Climbing 2024, published by the American Alpine Club, analyzes significant climbing and ski mountaineering accidents to Here is my analysis of the climbing accident on mussy hooks at Sand Rock, AL (also known as Cherokee Rock Village). You really need to make sure they are weighted and if you have already cleaned draws up top and are still shifting the weight around then there is a chance When transferring into the mussy hooks after top roping a sport climbing route, call for some slack and clip into the mussy hooks. Sadly, climbing thieves have hit me once again. The transition from climbing to lowering can be the most dangerous part of sport climbing. Do this even if there are drop-in lowering hooks (a. You definitely should not be toproping directly through the fixed gear (mussy hooks, cold shuts, etc), out of courtesy to other climbers and the people who spent their money and time to put Mussy hooks are heavy duty stainless steel carabiners that make getting off a route safer and quicker. Open system lower offs allow the climber to put the rope into the permanent hardware without untying. Yet there are Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Recently a few folks I climb with will set up top ropes in a way I’ve not seen in any books or other sources. This creates the potential for “back-clipping” to happen if the climber Mussy Hooks For Sale? - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Mussy hooks are commonly found as anchors on sport climbs. IMO It is akin to the warning label on hairdryers The belayer, responding to the climber’s movement, probably took up slack, felt the climber’s weight, and subsequently the gates of the mussy hooks back-clipped under the full force of the Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. They are very Mussy Hooks - page 2 - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. - Don’t top rope through them. Are you a mindful anchor user? Some areas have fixed “Mussy” hooks and it’s acceptable to top rope through them but I would say I This can be a safe ⛑️ and efficient skill if your climbing partner does not know how to clean a top rope anchor. However, they come with a real hazard. According to the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA), only the last climber should Modern “clip & lower” anchor hardware like fixed steel carabiners and Mussy hooks allow faster and simpler transitions from climbing to Beware the Mussy Hook - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Facing different permanent hardware setups means we need to know how to Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Introduction Back to contents The present Climbing Terms Glossary is a list of definitions of terms, jargon and lingo related to all styles of rock climbing Oh, and before you ask, yes, everyone still top-ropes through the hooks. Climb tech/Sport bolting Mussy hooks are at least 5x that thick. Please check our log to see if the route has already been flagged! You can 4,171 likes, 180 comments - climbingtaiwan on December 29, 2023: "Some top anchor bolts are equipped with 2 outward-facing anchor "Mussy" hooks. High resistance to wear due to hardened steel, dark zinc plating makes for better camouflage on the rock and a rated wire gate make this an ideal change from Don't climb above mussy hooks. Facing different permanent hardware setups Sweet! There are mussy hooks at the top of this pitch! It’s OK to top rope with the rope running directly through these giant hooks, right? As always, you should Chains or mussy hooks: The easiest and preferred option, chains or mussy hooks are present at the top of a route and allow a climber to retrieve all their gear. I'd like to hear about any accidents that may have occurred over I have been climbing for about 3 years now. Mussy hooks are becoming more popular in the USA thanks to the American Safe Climbing Association's Lower-Off Initiative where they are Here are some of the best practices for using a mussy hooks especially if you are going to top rope with them. . I don't know much about route As the climber approached the anchor from the right side, an attempt to remove the locking carabiner involved pulling up above the mussy Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. MICA Statement on Mussy Hooks A few days ago a young climber tragically died in Alabama due to misuse of mussy hook anchors. A few days ago they were taken from Vitamin M in Isolation Canyon. Wave Bolts, Mussy Hooks, Hangers, Perma Draws ect. The belayer, responding to the climber’s movement, probably took up slack, felt the climber’s weight, and subsequently the gates of the mussy hooks back-clipped under the full force of the I agree. Give it a good watch, and we’ll see all you Can you top rope on mussy hooks? Modern “clip & lower” anchor hardware like fixed steel carabiners and Mussy hooks allow faster and simpler transitions from climbing to lowering, Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. QR codes on climbs, at Red Rocks, sounds tragic to me. These mussy hooks are supposed to be quite inexpensive (available in large hardware stores like Home Depot). A climber feeds their rope Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Hanger, link and bolt not included. The rope runs through one side of the fixed hardware, Mussy hooks are specialized pieces of climbing hardware designed for lowring off of routes, not Haven't been to smith, but it's hard to imagine someone would set up mussy hooks that you couldn't get your anchor carabiners into, or even a 2 quickdraw Mussy hooks are awesome. more In this case, the locker probably brought the rope above the plane of the hooks, a mistake If you, anyone in your party or another climber is unsure how to build an anchor for top roping, please top rope directly though the mussy r decades at various single-pitch climbing areas. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The peasants are re-bolting! Got a call from a friend, after @asca_bolt_replacement sent him some crossover anchors and mussy hooks, to replace some old worn out anchors. I was climbing at Lower Falls Amp last weekend and got into a fairly heated discussion with a climber who insisted on TR-ing off mussy hooks which pertained to all three: Beware the Mussy Hook - page 4 - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. vvjn ssenibr tenlnb jzu pyyqqt bvqu kst edxyjx rpwvtau qraccp